An artist taboret is a rolling or fixed cart that keeps supplies within reach at your easel or table. Most combine drawers, shelves and a top surface for a palette. Designs range from compact carts to wide studio units in wood, metal or a mix of materials.
This guide suits hobby artists, students and craft makers who want tidy supplies near the work. We have not used these products ourselves; we compare the information in each listing, so confirm the details on the product page before you buy.
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What to Look For
| Factor | Why it matters | What to check |
|---|---|---|
| Storage layout | Drawers, trays and shelves suit different supplies. | Compare the number and depth of drawers. |
| Work surface | A small top limits palette space. | Check the listed top dimensions. |
| Height | It should sit at a comfortable level beside your easel. | Compare the listed height with your setup. |
| Casters | Smooth wheels help you move it, and locks keep it in place. | Look for lockable wheels. |
| Build material | Wood, metal and composite differ in weight and feel. | Read the material and assembly notes. |
| Footprint | A wide cart may not fit a small corner. | Measure floor space before ordering. |
Setup and Care Tips
- Follow assembly steps in order and keep screws loose until the frame is aligned.
- Group supplies by medium so each drawer has one job.
- Lock the casters whenever you are working.
- Wipe the top after each session so residue does not build up.
- Place the cart on the side of your dominant hand.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Ordering without measuring the floor space.
- Loading drawers beyond the maker’s note.
- Leaving wet supplies on an unprotected wood top.
- Ignoring the height compared with your easel.
- Skipping a look at the included hardware before you begin assembly.
Taboret Styles Compared
An artist taboret is a storage unit that sits beside your easel or desk and keeps supplies within reach. The term covers several styles, and each suits a different way of working.
- Rolling carts: Drawers or shelves on wheels. These suit studios where you move between easel and table, and the casters should lock.
- Drawer cabinets: Fixed units with several drawers, often with a work surface on top. They are sturdy and suit a dedicated corner.
- Open-shelf units: Shelves and trays instead of closed drawers. They give quick access but leave supplies visible and dusty.
- Folding or portable styles: Lighter and compact. These suit shared rooms, classes or artists who travel, though they hold less.
- Combination units: Some include a palette tray, a tabletop and pegboard or hooks. Check how these parts attach and what weight they hold.
Think about your medium. Oil and acrylic painters often want a flat top for a palette, a spot for jars and room for tubes. Watercolor artists may want shallow trays and a place for water. Drawing and pastel artists need drawers for pencils and sticks. Match the layout to the work you actually do.
Drawers, Trays and Storage Layout
The inside matters as much as the outside. Check drawer depth, width and how they open. Shallow drawers keep small items from getting buried, while deeper ones hold larger tools and bottles. A mix is often the most useful.
Look at the runners. Smooth sliding drawers with stops prevent them falling out when pulled fully open. Check the stated weight limit and avoid loading drawers with heavy bottles and jars beyond what the maker notes.
Ask a few questions before buying:
- Do drawers have dividers or can you add your own?
- Is there a spot for tall items such as bottles or spray cans?
- Is there an open shelf for items you use constantly?
- Can the unit hold a palette pad or a large tray on top?
- Do the drawers lock or stay shut when you roll the unit?
A good habit is to group supplies by medium or task so each drawer has a clear job. If you plan to store solvents or other hazardous materials, follow the manufacturer’s storage guidance for those products, as an ordinary drawer may not be appropriate.
Work Surface, Materials and Finish
The top is where paint, solvents and tools will land, so its material is worth attention. Wood tops look attractive and feel warm, but unfinished wood stains easily. A sealed or laminate top is easier to wipe clean. Metal and plastic tops resist spills but may feel less sturdy under heavy items.
Consider the frame as well. Solid wood and metal frames tend to be stable, while thin particleboard can sag under loads over time. Look at the joins and fasteners described in the listing. If you will be placing heavy items on top, check the stated weight limit.
Some artists protect the top with a glass palette, a disposable paper pad or a plastic mat. These keep the surface clean and let you lift away residue quickly. Check that the top is large enough for your preferred palette.
Finish matters too. Painted or sealed surfaces resist staining, but look for chips over time. If you use solvents, check the maker’s notes on finish and how it responds to cleaning products.
Budget tiers are easy to describe. Entry units are lightweight and simple. Mid-range options add sturdier drawers and better tops. Higher tiers use more solid materials and finer hardware.
Size, Height and Studio Fit
A taboret should sit comfortably within arm’s reach while you work. Sketch your layout, noting where the easel stands and which hand you use. Most artists place the taboret on their dominant side so they can reach without leaning.
Compare the top height with your easel and your stool. If you stand to paint, a taller unit saves bending. If you sit, a lower unit works better. Check the listed height and footprint, and measure the floor space you can spare.
Think about movement. A unit on casters is easy to reposition, but wheels can roll when you do not want them to. Locking casters are important, and they should be on at least two wheels. Check the floor type too, since small wheels can catch on rugs or uneven boards.
Assembly deserves attention. Many taborets arrive flat-packed, and tightening everything at the end rather than at the start helps keep the frame square. Keep the screws and tools in one place, and recheck the fixings after a few weeks of use.
Signs it is time to replace include wobbling that tightening cannot fix, drawers that no longer slide, damaged casters and a top that is warped or soaked with solvents.
FAQ
What should I store in an artist taboret?
Most people keep brushes, tubes, pencils, mediums and small tools in the drawers and use the top for a palette or tools in use.
Do I need a taboret with wheels?
Wheels are handy if you move around a studio. If you work in one spot, a fixed unit may be enough.
How big should an artist taboret be?
It depends on your studio and the supplies you own. Measure the floor space beside your easel, and compare the unit's footprint, height and drawer sizes with your tools.
Is a rolling taboret stable enough for painting?
Many are, provided the casters lock and the unit is loaded evenly. Check the listing for locking wheels and the maker's weight guidance.
Can I store solvents in a taboret?
Follow the product maker's storage instructions for any solvent or hazardous material. An ordinary drawer may not be suitable, so check the labels before you store them.
What can I use to protect the top?
Artists often use a glass palette, a disposable palette pad or a washable mat. Choose something that fits the top and suits your paints.
Should I choose open shelves or drawers?
Drawers hide clutter and keep dust out, while open shelves give quick access. Many artists like a mix, so look for a unit with both.
How do I stop drawers from sticking?
Keep the unit on a level surface and avoid overloading the drawers. Check that runners are clean and tightened, and follow the maker's care notes.
Questions to Ask Before You Buy
- Which media do I use most: oils, acrylics, watercolors, pencils or mixed craft supplies?
- Do I need shallow drawers for tubes and brushes, or deep ones for larger tools?
- Will I work seated or standing, and does the top height suit that?
- Is the cart meant to stay in one place, or will I roll it between rooms?
- How much of the top surface is flat and usable for a palette?
- Does the listing say how the unit ships and how long assembly takes?
Matching It to Your Space
Studios come in all shapes, so measure the spot first. Note the width, depth and any slope in the floor, then add the room you need to open drawers fully. A cart that fits against a wall may block a door swing when the drawers are out.
Think about light and traffic. A taboret beside the easel should not cast shadows across the canvas, and it should not sit where family members walk. Many artists place it on their working side so a reach feels natural. If you share the room, a model on locking wheels is easier to tuck away when the session ends.
Small Corners
For a tight corner, look for slim footprints and vertical storage. Shelves, trays and hooks can hold more than a single wide drawer. Compare the depth of each compartment with your longest brushes and pencils.
Feature Trade-offs
More Drawers or More Open Shelves
Drawers hide clutter and keep dust off supplies. Open shelves give quick access and a clear view of what you own. Pick based on how often you need each item and how tidy you like the work area.
Solid Wood or Lighter Materials
Wood feels sturdy and quiet but adds weight, which matters if you plan to roll it. Lighter metal or composite carts move easily but may feel less solid under a loaded top. Read the maker’s description of the finish and the manual and instructions for care.
Large Top or Compact Body
A wide top gives more palette room, but it takes more floor space. A compact body suits small rooms, with trays or a lap board used for extra working area.
The Short Version
A good taboret keeps your supplies close and your workspace tidy. Match the storage layout, height and footprint to how you work, and check the build details before you decide.
